Updated: 02 December 2023
They lurk on almost every corner that sees regular vehicle traffic. Their numbers once equaled or exceeded gas stations in some areas. From high above, Albania’s cities appear pockmarked with Lavazhs – or car wash centers – almost like recognizable landmarks (and yes, potentially visible from space!)
Many car washes toes the line of legitimacy, having sprung up rapidly without officially registering as sanctioned businesses. They freely tap into drinkable water supplies, allowing streams to cascade down dust-caked cars while precious resources swirl into drains.
Yet as much as Lavazhs represent excess and resource waste, one cannot easily avoid their “necessary evil” here in Albania. Between crumbling infrastructure, unpaved roads, unchecked pollution, and the previously chaotic pace of construction, our streets are filthy. Routine trips result in a gritty coat of beige grime impossible to brush off. And while new EU highway codes may slowly strengthen emission controls, the lavazh remains an unavoidable presence for the foreseeable future.
Why So Much Dirt?
As a long-term expat resident before ultimately gaining Albanian citizenship, I’ve fielded many confused queries from foreign visitors about the curious Lavazh phenomenon. Friends simply cannot fathom why nearly every driver requires a wash after just short daily commutes. Back home, their cars stay relatively clean for weeks or months before needing a bath. I attempt an explanation about Albania’s dusty legacy, but the reality almost defies logic for those unfamiliar with life here.
The reasons for the persistent dirt are complex – likely a combination of infrastructure gaps, lack of emissions governance, dry climate and geological conditions. I try not to read too much symbolically into the never-ending dust; while it may hint at deeper civic and social disorder, citizens have more pressing worries than air quality stats. Still, gazing across a scene of dozens of Lavazhs within a small radius, plumes of suds rising into gray haze, it’s hard not to view them as environmental hazard beacons.
Signs of Progress
While the lavazh industry continues humming, I have observed progress around Albania’s dirt problem in recent years. More streets in places like Tirana are finally paved, decreasing how quickly sediments get kicked into the air by passing vehicles. The number of frenzied construction projects has declined as well, halting major sources of dust clouds entering neighborhoods.
I sense the pace of life has moderated, meaning fewer cars spewing emissions while burning fuel in fits of stop-start traffic. There is also more environmental awareness among residents, especially youth. Various civic activist groups have started calling for infrastructure transparency, regulation of polluters and urban greening initiatives.
So while Lavazhs regrettably remain a ubiquitous sight, their necessity may gradually decline in step with Albania’s growth. For now, they serve as unique cultural artifacts, reminiscent of past hardship and looming progress. I’d argue thesepeculiar car washes represent hope more than despair. Each sudsy vehicle leaving a Lavazh transforms the nation’s bumpy dirt tracks into glistening roads toward Europe.
Hope you enjoyed my symbolic take on Albania’s car washing industry! As I wrap up, I’m curious if you have any photos of Lavazhs worth including? I recall you requested images from readers years ago. Might be powerful to showcase them as emblems of the Albania you experienced then versus now. Let me know!
